Greetings from Salalah, Oman. November 3, 2008
Leaving Safaga, Egypt on October 25, we cruised down the Gulf of Suez to its south entrance, at a narrow strait called Bab El Mandeb (Gate of Tears). Some say it is named for the fact that during slave-trading days, many ship-loads of slaves were loaded in the Gulf of Suez and taken through this strait from the NE African region that now is Sudan, Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia. Others attribute its name to the fact that many ships were lost on the hidden rocks in this narrow passage before lighthouses were erected.
Passing through the strait at Bab El Mandeb, we turned east into the Gulf of Aden, running between the southern shore of Yemen and the northeastern shore of Somalia on the Horn of Africa. No voyage on a tall ship would be complete without a pirate’s tale—and we have ours!
You’ve probably heard about the epidemic of recent Somalian pirate attacks on ships passing through the Gulf of Aden and along the NE Horn of Africa. If you haven’t, you can go to the Web and look up “Somalian Pirates” or look up the article dated October 4 titled “The Million Dollar Pirates” in the British weekly magazine, “The Week.” The article says that more than 60 ships have been attacked in these waters this year, with multi-million $ ransom demands. Somalian pirates are still holding the Ukrainian freighter that was captured in early October, carrying 33 Russian tanks and tons of military munitions bound for Kenya. Apparently, both U.S. and Russian warships are standing by the ship, while negotiations continue, in efforts to get the ship and crew released.
The US Ambassador in Egypt sent a message to the American citizens on board Star Clipper, recommending that we disembark in Safaga and leave the voyage, unless a military escort could be arranged for Star Clipper.
A US-led coalition of NATO countries and others is now providing 13-14 warships to patrol this 600-mile corridor. Captain Jurgen initiated a set of “antipiracy measures” for Star Clipper’s passage through this Gulf of Aden, and arranged for a military escort. To “discourage” any unauthorized boarding of our ship, the crew strung razor wire and a high-voltage electrical wire around the ship on extended angle-iron arms, and draped netting over the side from extended booms that was intended to entangle the propellers of any boat that came alongside.
Most importantly, we’re immensely proud to say that a USN guided missile destroyer, the USS Mahan, was assigned to escort us! (See the photo posted here.) At noon Friday after we entered the Gulf of Aden, the Mahan met us, circled Star Flyer doing 30 knots speed (vs. our 10 knots), blasted a Meet-and Greet on the ship’s horn, and fell in behind us where it cruised for our 600-mile trip through the piracy patch. Believe me, for an old sea-farer, that was a beautiful site! I’d have to say that even the “peaceniks” on board (there are a few) were proud and grateful to be sailing under the watchful eye of this sleek gray lady.
Sunday when we left the Gulf of Aden, the USS Mahan came alongside for photos, and Captain Jurgen slowed down and raised all Star Clippers sails for their crew to get photos of our classic square-rigged clipper ship under sail. We’ve been mostly running under engine and partial sail, depending on wind strength and direction. Our crew put an inflatable boat over the side, went alongside the Mahan, and took gifts to their officers and crew. As we approached the coast of Oman late yesterday, the Mahan said goodbye and departed for other duties. We arrived safely in Salalah early Monday morning, Nov. 3.
Some guests took an optional excursion to the city and surrounding area to see frankincense production and the gift markets, but we stayed on board. We’ve both been afflicted with an intestinal bug the past few days that hit most of the ship’s guests and had low-grade fevers of up to 101.5F. However, we brought along a prescription of Cipro antibiotic and that has cleared it up, Inshallah!
Monday afternoon, we sailed east for Goa, India, a 5-day sail across the Indian Ocean. We expect to arrive in Goa November 9. Thankfully, we should have easier Internet and telephone access there, they say.
Love,
Betty and Bill
Leaving Safaga, Egypt on October 25, we cruised down the Gulf of Suez to its south entrance, at a narrow strait called Bab El Mandeb (Gate of Tears). Some say it is named for the fact that during slave-trading days, many ship-loads of slaves were loaded in the Gulf of Suez and taken through this strait from the NE African region that now is Sudan, Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia. Others attribute its name to the fact that many ships were lost on the hidden rocks in this narrow passage before lighthouses were erected.
Passing through the strait at Bab El Mandeb, we turned east into the Gulf of Aden, running between the southern shore of Yemen and the northeastern shore of Somalia on the Horn of Africa. No voyage on a tall ship would be complete without a pirate’s tale—and we have ours!
You’ve probably heard about the epidemic of recent Somalian pirate attacks on ships passing through the Gulf of Aden and along the NE Horn of Africa. If you haven’t, you can go to the Web and look up “Somalian Pirates” or look up the article dated October 4 titled “The Million Dollar Pirates” in the British weekly magazine, “The Week.” The article says that more than 60 ships have been attacked in these waters this year, with multi-million $ ransom demands. Somalian pirates are still holding the Ukrainian freighter that was captured in early October, carrying 33 Russian tanks and tons of military munitions bound for Kenya. Apparently, both U.S. and Russian warships are standing by the ship, while negotiations continue, in efforts to get the ship and crew released.
The US Ambassador in Egypt sent a message to the American citizens on board Star Clipper, recommending that we disembark in Safaga and leave the voyage, unless a military escort could be arranged for Star Clipper.
A US-led coalition of NATO countries and others is now providing 13-14 warships to patrol this 600-mile corridor. Captain Jurgen initiated a set of “antipiracy measures” for Star Clipper’s passage through this Gulf of Aden, and arranged for a military escort. To “discourage” any unauthorized boarding of our ship, the crew strung razor wire and a high-voltage electrical wire around the ship on extended angle-iron arms, and draped netting over the side from extended booms that was intended to entangle the propellers of any boat that came alongside.
Most importantly, we’re immensely proud to say that a USN guided missile destroyer, the USS Mahan, was assigned to escort us! (See the photo posted here.) At noon Friday after we entered the Gulf of Aden, the Mahan met us, circled Star Flyer doing 30 knots speed (vs. our 10 knots), blasted a Meet-and Greet on the ship’s horn, and fell in behind us where it cruised for our 600-mile trip through the piracy patch. Believe me, for an old sea-farer, that was a beautiful site! I’d have to say that even the “peaceniks” on board (there are a few) were proud and grateful to be sailing under the watchful eye of this sleek gray lady.
Sunday when we left the Gulf of Aden, the USS Mahan came alongside for photos, and Captain Jurgen slowed down and raised all Star Clippers sails for their crew to get photos of our classic square-rigged clipper ship under sail. We’ve been mostly running under engine and partial sail, depending on wind strength and direction. Our crew put an inflatable boat over the side, went alongside the Mahan, and took gifts to their officers and crew. As we approached the coast of Oman late yesterday, the Mahan said goodbye and departed for other duties. We arrived safely in Salalah early Monday morning, Nov. 3.
Some guests took an optional excursion to the city and surrounding area to see frankincense production and the gift markets, but we stayed on board. We’ve both been afflicted with an intestinal bug the past few days that hit most of the ship’s guests and had low-grade fevers of up to 101.5F. However, we brought along a prescription of Cipro antibiotic and that has cleared it up, Inshallah!
Monday afternoon, we sailed east for Goa, India, a 5-day sail across the Indian Ocean. We expect to arrive in Goa November 9. Thankfully, we should have easier Internet and telephone access there, they say.
Love,
Betty and Bill
